Friday, March 23, 2012
The War of Independence against the Ottoman rule was inspired by one sole idea, Liberty, which became the locus of all Greek people’s efforts after the flag of the revolution was proudly hailed in 1821. The toll in human lives was heavy among the revolted Greeks -undoubtedly, the massacres of Chios (1822) and Psara (1824) put an indelible mark in Modern Greek History.
Yet, Messolonghi -a paraphrase of the Italian words "Mezzo" and "Laghi" which means surrounded by lakes- has become a symbol of Greek Independence. Five years prior to the establishment of Modern Greece in 1830, the war for independence was still waging and Messolonghi had already been under siege twice.
On April 1825, Kutahye Pasha joined forces with Ibrahim Pasha who was already fighting in the Peloponnese. The numbers were ruthless -the Ottomans had a combined army of 25,000 men against 4,000 Greeks, including chieftains who hurried to Messolonghi from neighbouring regions. The Greek navy managed to lift the naval blockage and reinforced the besieged with munitions, provisions and troops on one or two occasions, but time was against Greeks. Almost a year later, they were surrounded by sea and land, the fortressed city was incessantly bombarded and water, food or ammunition had been totally depleted.
On April 10, 1826, on the very Eve of Palm Sunday, the besieged attempted a desperate sortie.
Unfortunately, their plan was secretly relayed to the Ottomans, who indiscriminately slaughtered men, women and children -out of the 7,000 Greeks strong enough to take part in the sortie, only 1,000 survived.
Their sacrifice inspired philhellene poets and painters across Europe, who formed a solidarity front denouncing the Ottoman atrocity. Greek laureate national poet and writer of the national anthem, Dionysios Solomos, dedicated the fragmentary epic, "The Free Besieged", to the defenders of Messolonghi, describing them not only as heroes, but also as humans, just hours before the exodus:
Absolute silence of the tomb prevails on the plain;
Singing bird plucks a seed, and the mother envies it.
Hunger has darkened their eyes, on them the mother swears.
The brave Soulioti stands to one side and weeps:
"Poor sombre rifle, why do I have you in my hand?
How burdensome you've become and the infidel knows it".
[Translated by Peter Thomson]
Modern day Messolonghi is referred to as the "Sacred City", a title bestowed in honour of those who lost their lives fighting for freedom. Should visitors cross the arched gate of the picturesque town, they will be surprised, for most hotels and restaurants are called Liberty.
A stroll in the beautiful Garden of Heroes is a trip down history lane, full of monuments and busts of important philhellenes who fought side by side with Greeks, such as Swiss Johann-Jacob Mayer and, of course, poet Lord Byron.
Every Palm Sunday, a nocturnal, austere parade commemorates the exodus, with Messolonghians wearing their ancestor’s original kilts -fustanella- and hailing their family banners and arms, in memory of those long gone who lived and died by the motto inscribed on the Greek Revolution flag: Liberty or Death.
You Tube: Palm Sunday Eve commemoration parade [VIDEO]; Greek News Agenda: Special Issue: Greek Independence & Women Fighting for Freedom & Art & the Greek Revolution & The Power of the Navy & Celebrating Greek Independence & Walking the Land of Revolution